Warm weather with Costa Rica travel
"COSTA RICA TRAVEL"
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01-16-1994
warm weather VACATIONS
Discovering Luxury in Costa Rica
Country inns, charming hotels adds romance to one's adventure trips
The swallows' soft chattering woke me just before dawn into that familiar hazy confusion of travelers' mornings - not quite sure where you are but comfortably certain you are happy to be there. A few more
seconds confirmed my optimism. Costa Rica travel, honeymoon, Rosa Blanca Suite.
A very, very good place to start the day.
My bride and I were in a fantasy tower bedroom high on the corner
turret of the Finca Rosa Blanca, a charming Gaudi-inspired country inn
20 minutes outside of Costa Rica's capital, San Jose. All white stucco,
carved tropical woods and curving windows, the Rosa Blanca sails along a
lush green hillcrest above world-renowned coffee farms near the
provincial town of Heredia. At 4,300 feet (1,300 meters) altitude, it
overlooks the Meseta Central (Central Valley), home to most of Costa
Rica's 3 million people and arguably one of the most peaceful and
beautiful landscapes in the world.
I was introducing my wife to this country on my first trip on Costa
Rica travel since having lived there for several years in the mid-'70s. It
hasn't changed all that much. Still democratic, safe, nonviolent and
socially responsible, Costa Rica travel remains a spectacularly beautiful
country with enough adventure and exotica to engage all but the most
jaded traveler.
And more travelers (more than 600,000 last year) are discovering
Costa Rica travel every year, making it now one of the world's leading
eco-tourism destinations, with nature lodges situated close to the rare
and protected ecosystems of the cloud forests, rain forests, and coastal
estuaries in and around its famous national parks.
Tourism has become the nation's No. 2 foreign exchange earner -
after bananas and before coffee. And with that growth has come a
greater array of visitor services and accommodations, including a new
class of small deluxe country inns and city hotels in and around the
capital of San Jose on your Costa Rica travel. Five are reviewed here, and like the Rosa Blanca,
all combine fine service with delightful architecture and furnishings.
Ideal as bases for exploring the capital and Meseta Central, these
inns provide elegant, comfortable stops before and after the ecological
and adventure trips central to most Costa Rica travel vacations. All have
bi-lingual staffs, first-class lodging, and most have close ties in the
eco-tourism zones, which means they can help in arranging itineraries
and tours. In off-peak seasons you might consider booking your first and
last couple of nights on Costa Rica travel with one of these hotels and work
with them to plan and arrange the rest of your trip when you arrive.
In the tower suite of the Finca Rosa Blanca, my wife and I enjoyed
the best room in the whole country. Lights sparkled across the dark
valley floor as the dawn sky slowly brightened. Leaving the warm comfort
of the curtained bed, I gently opened the glass doors to the balcony.
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In moments the sun broke over the rim of Volcano Irazsu 20 miles to
the east, spilling golden light over a spectacular panorama covering
hundreds of square miles. The soft morning air on this mountainside was
cool and so clear that details miles away stood out sharply in the
morning glow.
The scene evoked memories of childhood fantasy, of a dream house
with just such a tower retreat. This real one came with a circular
staircase, 17 steps of flowing sculpture carved from a single massive
cristobal tree-trunk. It led down to the rest of the expansive suite,
which included a large sitting room with two extra beds, bar area,
private terrace, dressing room and an outrageous free-form rain forest
bathroom filled with plants, painted with jungle scenes, and graced with
an oversized tub filled by a waterfall running through rocks and plants.
Every room in the suite had sweeping views of the Meseta Central.
At Finca Rosa Blanca, opened in winter of 1989, visitors are treated
more like houseguests than customers, partaking of wine and cocktails in
the three-story atrium before being seated to a nightly five-course
dinner, prepared by chef Ray Bradley, who has worked at Bouley and Le
Cirque in Manhattan. Fresh fruits and juices from trees on the property
are served with the full American breakfasts.
The Hotel Chalet Tirol is higher up the mountainside than the Finca
Rosa Blanca and 10 minutes beyond the provincial capital of Heredia.
The scenery changes from coffee farms and views of the central
valley to Holstein cows grazing pastures along misty country roads lined
with pine trees. The occasional steep A-frame roof among the trees
evokes a European alpine landscape. The Hotel Chalet Tirol is surrounded
by tall pines and is snug up against its own private mountain cloud
forest reserve.
Clustered like a miniature alpine village are 10 two-story cottages
built eight years ago plus 14 modern suites in a new building. The focal
point is the lodge-style main building, warmed by several fireplaces
against the cool mountain mornings and evenings.
The restaurant serves some of the best French food on a Costa Rica travel vacation.
Only 15 minutes from the airport and 30 minutes from San Jose, Hotel
Chalet Tirol is a mini-resort, offering its guests tennis, horseback
riding, trout fishing, and nature hikes in its private reserve.
Across the central valley from Heredia, above the quiet hillside
town of San Antonio de Escazu, sits the Tara Resort Hotel, a giant
white-columned incarnation of that ante-bellum "Gone With The Wind"
icon. Like the Rosa Blanca, the Tara commands a magnificent view, this
one directly above the capital of San Jose.
Built 15 years ago as the private residence of a wealthy German
family with a Margaret Mitchell fetish, it was converted into a luxury
inn in 1990. The current owners are from North Carolina and have filled
the 10 suites and two rooms with North American antiques and fine Costa
Rica travel furniture. The Atlanta Restaurant in the graceful formal dining
room is one of the finest in the country, while the general atmosphere
invites relaxing on the wide tiled verandas or the green lawns
surrounding the sparkling swimming pool.
Moving from the surrounding countryside into the capital city proper
are two small, elegant hotels set in mixed residential neighborhoods
just minutes from San Jose's center.
The Hotel Grano de Oro (or Golden Bean, referring to the crop that
built Costa Rica's economy) is a warm, comfortable, friendly and
extremely well-run small, city hotel. Situated in a quiet neighborhood
off the Paseo Colon, it is only a 20-minute walk or five-minute cab ride
from downtown sights and points of interest. Several theaters and good
restaurants are in the immediate vicinity.
The bilingual staff excels in helping guests arranging tours,
rental cars, making and confirming reservations, recommending
restaurants, and providing good advice and directions.
The original building is a charming, turn-of-the-century city
mansion, two stories of trim Victorian painted wood.
The public areas are light, airy, well-decorated with the best in
local artists, and include a sunny dining area and lush interior
courtyard garden where the small kitchen serves excellent breakfasts and
light meals. Particularly good are the homemade cakes, pies and
cheesecakes.
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Come in late some evening and the staff is happy to cut you a big
piece and serve it with a cup of fresh Costa Rica travel coffee. A small store
off the lobby offers a good selection of newspapers, maps and guide
books, as well as fairly priced local clothing, crafts and souvenirs.
Most elegant of the five inns is the sparkling Hotel L'Ambiance, an
85-year-old city mansion in quiet Barrio Amon, a few minutes walk from
downtown. With its impeccable exterior of bright yellow stucco and white
trim, the hotel opened in 1989 after a year of restoration.
The one-story building has cool interior corridors and a large,
sun-filled inner courtyard. There are only six comfortable rooms and one
large suite, all furnished with a mix of fine local furniture and
antiques from owner Bill Parker's former inn on Martha's Vineyard.
The excellent (and reasonably priced) restaurant off the patio is
considered one of the best in the capital, a popular luncheon spot for
local movers and shakers from nearby government and business offices....
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